Last updated 5/12/17 10:13am
1. Fujifilm Fujinon 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS $699.00 BHP
Hugh2017, “Re: Fuji 18-35mm for 4k video on the XT2,” DPReview: “Stick to constant aperture lenses for video, Primes or the 16-55, 50-140. Much like panasonic and the 12-35 & 35-100 when you zoom exposure will not change unlike a variable aperture zoom like the 18-135. You can use it, but zooming while actively recording will not look good.”
Take Kayo, “The Fujifilm ‘Fujicron’ XF 23mm f/2 WR,” Fujilove, 11/2/16: “The only reason I chose to bring the X-T2 [over X-Pro2] on both trips is because I needed the superior video capabilities, including the vertical power grip that gives me 2 extra batteries and external headphone monitoring.”
2. 16-55mm f2.8 R LM WR $1,199.00 Amazon
Settings for video:
cprevost: Unless you are trying to do slow motion video I wouldn’t be using 60fps. I’d use 24 or 30 with shutter speed 2x your fps rate. Low ISO and whatever aperture you need. Make sure you have a fast SD card as poor write performance can mess with video. The kit lens should be fine.
racin06: Yes, you are correct on the 2x rule…at 60fps, the SS should be 1/125 sec. At 30 fps, the SS should be 1/60 sec. Regarding artifacts and flickering…a SS of 1/500 sec. will cause problems and create what most call a “strobe effect.”
goodglass: In your post you state that you shoot Full HD. Fuji uses that “tag” for their 1080. Have you tried their 4k internal option? I found it far better than the 1080 for moire, shutter roll and artifact issues. In short, it looks a lot better. All the best. . .
cprevost: If the bottleneck is the speed of the card you could get dropped frames and other weird things in the video. Fast cards aren’t that expensive and you want to eliminate that from being an issue. Imagine a video as saving 30 images to the card every second. If the card is too slow to write that fast then it drops some images in order to keep up. This results in choppy video.
cprevost: Wouldn’t you be on a tripod if doing interviews? I think that stabilization is a must for hand holding. If you are going to hand hold a non stabilized lens then wide angle will give you less camera shake.
cprevost: The OIS on the 18-55 lens makes it usable hand held for video. It’s not as good as my experience with Olympus image stabilization but not too bad. Without the OIS the footage is just too shaky. It’s likely the best option for hand holding with this camera. The focal length range is useful and the OIS is crucial.
celestialemissary: Yeah use 18-55 and if you are recording in 4k you can do stabilisation in post without big downgrade. Best solution would be to use those small primes and buy a gimbal. Better than any OIS or IBIS
mdotson90: I have both and have used both for video. If you’re filming where the light is good, or you have your own light, then maybe you can get away with the 18-135mm. It’s a little more versatile cause of the zoom range. If you’re doing anything creative with longer focal lengths or in bad light, the 18-135mm can be a bit of a pain due to its comparatively smaller aperture. In the overlapping focal lengths, the 18-55 has from a 2/3 stop advantage over the 18-135.
baobob: I still think that the 18-55mm will give you more flexibility for framing depending on situations and scenes (or it’s big brother)n OIS is definitly IMHO a must have. Shooting at 2.8/4 with the lens gives nice back ground and gives a sufficent DOF to avoid part of the face blurred
celestialemissary: Gimbal will give you pro results. But still I think that you should get 18-55 and see if that OIS is good for your work. Gimbal will give you pro results. But still I think that you should get 18-55 and see if that OIS is good for your work. Ultimate combo would be gimbal and F2 primes. They have very fast and dead silent AF. X-T2 CAF for video is one of the best in the game and I think that you can rely on it. Ultimate combo would be gimbal and F2 primes. They have very fast and dead silent AF. X-T2 CAF for video is one of the best in the game and I think that you can rely on it.