The EOS 20D has an 8.2 MP APS-C sensor. It was released in Aug. 2004. I bought it a few weeks ago at a garage sale. It came with the Canon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 kit lens and a Tamron SP 28-75mm f/2.8 Macro lens. All the clock photos in this video were shot on the 20D with Tamron 28-75. In most of the photos, I cropped and adjusted for exposure in LR. The 20D is definitely as relevant today as it was 14 years ago.
4/28/18: Shutter life expectancy = 50,000 actuations.
Fujifilm X-T2 with Fujinon 55-200mm. Photos shot 7 April 2018 from 7:26 to 7:32 AM in Honolulu.
Here are a couple of random photos from an indoor night-time test with fluorescent lighting. I set WB to auto. I used a tripod and self-timer. Both were shot at 0.8 sec at f/6.3 ISO 100.
I took 10 shots, and the other 8 were slightly out of focus. So that means a 20% hit rate. Not sure what the cause is. All were shot on a tripod with a 10-second self-timer. I may want to experiment with mirror lockup and manual focusing the next time. However, the focusing ring on this 18-55 is about the thickness of a quarter and feels flimsy and plasticky. In fact, the entire lens feels this way. Like a toy. Not sure if the focusing ring came out of the box this way or evolved over time.
Still, the ones that turned out okay impressed me. This 8.2 MP seems to perform far better than some of my other cameras with higher MPs. The more I use this camera, the more I like it.
Last updated 4/1/18 3:11 AM
Bought a Canon EOS 20D 8.2 MP SLR this morning at a garage sale. It came with two lenses: Tamron SP 28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD (model A09) and the kit lens, Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 II.
All photos of the Canon 20D were taken with the Lumix GM1. This tiny interchangeable lens camera with 12-32mm kit lens has become my workhorse for these types of product photos. I’m able to use my Sirui ultralight T-025X tripod with the GM1. In this setup, the GM1 features are an advantage. I had about given up on the 12-32 in favor of the Lumix 20mm f/1.7, but now the 12-32 rarely comes off.
The camera had been sitting in a closet for years. The battery was dead when I looked it over, so I wasn’t sure if it would work. The camera and lenses were covered in dust and cobwebs. I couldn’t tell whether the glass was salvageable. I also didn’t know if the battery would be able to hold a charge. The price was right, but it was still a gamble. I’m not too familiar with Canons, so I had no idea about its sensor size or megapixels.
This feature in the D810 is extremely non-intuitive.
To switch the pattern of focus points in the viewfinder, look for the auto/manual switch on the left (with the screen facing you) front of the camera. Hold down the button in the center of the switch with your left index finger.
AF-mode button embedded in the focus-mode selector.
At the same time, use the front or back command dial (on top right of camera) with your thumb or right index finger to cycle through the options.
Main command dial (back) and sub-command dial (front).
I usually switch between the single point and the 5-points in a cross pattern. In this pattern, the center point is omitted, so you see only 4 points.
With your eye on the viewfinder, you can also hold down the metering option button on the release mode dial with your left index finger while rotating the command dial with your right thumb. Keep your eye on the left corner of the bottom menu bar to cycle through the different options.
Metering option button on the release mode dial.
You can change the number of focus points via the menu button. Go to the pencil icon (Custom Setting Menu) and select the top item “A” for Autofocus.
The Sigma 35 f/1.4 Art from B&H arrived today. Used the Sigma USB Dock (UD-01) to update the firmware to version 1.03. I live in a very dusty area, so a clear protective lens goes on all my glass literally seconds after unboxing. I’d rather subject a filter to cleaning than the actual lens.
Sigma 35 f/1.4 Art. Photos taken with Sony Cybershot DSC-W370 14.1mp.