This feature in the D810 is extremely non-intuitive.
To switch the pattern of focus points in the viewfinder, look for the auto/manual switch on the left (with the screen facing you) front of the camera. Hold down the button in the center of the switch with your left index finger.
AF-mode button embedded in the focus-mode selector.
At the same time, use the front or back command dial (on top right of camera) with your thumb or right index finger to cycle through the options.
Main command dial (back) and sub-command dial (front).
I usually switch between the single point and the 5-points in a cross pattern. In this pattern, the center point is omitted, so you see only 4 points.
With your eye on the viewfinder, you can also hold down the metering option button on the release mode dial with your left index finger while rotating the command dial with your right thumb. Keep your eye on the left corner of the bottom menu bar to cycle through the different options.
Metering option button on the release mode dial.
You can change the number of focus points via the menu button. Go to the pencil icon (Custom Setting Menu) and select the top item “A” for Autofocus.
The Sigma 35 f/1.4 Art from B&H arrived today. Used the Sigma USB Dock (UD-01) to update the firmware to version 1.03. I live in a very dusty area, so a clear protective lens goes on all my glass literally seconds after unboxing. I’d rather subject a filter to cleaning than the actual lens.
Sigma 35 f/1.4 Art. Photos taken with Sony Cybershot DSC-W370 14.1mp.
Based on DxO sharpness scores (sharpness/overall), the best options are all bunched closely together between 21 and 26, with Tamron’s SP 90-2.8 at the top and Nikon’s 105-2.8 at the bottom. The Tamron SP 90, Sigma 105 and 150, and Nikon 105 have image stabilization. Maximum reproduction ratio is 1:1 for all except the Zeiss, which is 1:2. Minimum focus distance: Tamron 11.8″, Tokina 11.8″, Nikon 12″, Sigma 105 12.2″, Sigma 150 15″, Zeiss 16.8″.
26/34 Tamron SP 90mm f/2.8 VC DI USD ($649-699) (used Amaz $408)
Fujifilm X-H1 front view.
My first reaction to the Fujifilm X-H1 was disappointment. At first sight, it was ugly. After a full day of reading and watching reviews, it’s still ugly. My attraction to Fujifilm’s X-series was as much for the look as for the features. The X100-T looked cool in 2014, and it still looks cool today. The same goes for the X-T2. Cool in 2016, and cool today. In fact, I liked the X-look so much that I also bought a used X-E1 as a backup up to the X-T2. So, I was surprised. Disappointed. I expected the X-H1 to look like the X-T2 — only better. I didn’t expect a pint-sized replica of the GFX-50S, which is ugly. Continue reading
Tamron SP 85mm f/1.8 Di VC USD lens mounted on Nikon D810. First test shots on a wet late afternoon.
All shots are RAW converted to JPG, SOOC with minimal straightening and no editing. Film simulation is Velvia.
I have rectangular hoods for four of my Fujinon lenses:
- 56-f/1.2 (uses the LH-XF23)
The following lenses all share the 062mm filter size:
- 23 f/1.4
- 56 f/1.2
- 90 f/2
- 80 f/2.8
- 55-200 f3.5-4.8
However, the 90 and 80 didn’t take the LH-XF23 hood when I tried to put it on. The XF55-200 f/3.5-4.8 can take the LH-XF23 without impeding the shot, but I’m not sure if it can block unwanted light as well as the stock hood.