X100T: Best Video Tutorial for Menu Settings

Anthony Morganti’s “Fujifilm X100t Menu Settings,” YouTube 5/2/16

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X-T2 & X100T: How to Switch Between LCD and Viewfinder

1. On the X-T2, to switch to LCD view, click the VIEW MODE button.

2. Click the DISP/BACK button.

On the X100T, the VIEW MODE button is here.

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X-T2 with 55-200mm and 10-24mm: Hōkūleʻa Returns Home 2017

Last updated 6/20/17 9:20pm

Shot this with my X-T2, with mostly the 55-200mm. I used the 10-24mm for crowd shots. Began shooting at 6:15am from the Ala Wai Yacht Club end of the harbor, thinking that would give me the best angle. There weren’t many people yet, so I got a good seat on the wall. As the voyaging canoes from the other islands began to arrive ahead of the Hokule’a, I realized my view might be blocked. They were being moored almost directly in front of me.

At the harbor entrance.

Since the estimated arrival time was 9:00, I decided to find a better location. It was around 8:40. The water’s edge along the park was filled, so I walked to the tip of park, thinking that would be my best bet for some great shots of the canoe coming in. The edges here were packed, too. However, as I slowly worked my way along the crowd, looking for an opening, I spotted one. Along the stone wall edge, I saw an open spot. However, I’d have to get through the people standing packed together.

Diamond Head coming into view.

I asked one of them if I could get through. She asked if I’d be sitting, and I said yes. She let me through, and I found a seat on a large rock on the water’s edge with a clear view of the harbor channel. My only concern was the waves, which were beginning to break harder against the rocks, sending spray into the air. I didn’t mind getting wet, but I didn’t want my lens to get sprayed with salt water. Turned out the spray didn’t get to me. The Hokule’a became visible on the horizon at around 9:21.

Close-up of some of the crew with Diamond Head in the background.

I shot continuously until 9:42, when the canoe had passed  deeper into the harbor. The crowd began moving toward the docking site, which was way too crowded. I decided to leave and took some crowd shots as I walked out of the park. I stopped at 10:00am.

Diamond Head in full view.

It drizzled off and on earlier in the morning, and I ended up shooting with a plastic bag over the lens. Awkward, but it worked.

Home, at last.

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Nikon D5500: My Manual Setup

Nikon D5500 with AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1.8G lens.


PENCIL (Custom Setting Menu)

  • Set  Number of Focus Points (AF39)
  • Rangefinder (ON)
  • Viewfinder  grid display (ON)

CAMERA (Shooting Menu)

  • Image Quality: set to NEF (RAW) + JPEG fine
  • Image Size: set to Large 6000 x 4000; 24.0 M
  • NEF (RAW) Recording: set to 14-bit 14-bit
  • White balance: Set to Auto

Manual Operation

Set mode dial to M for manual.

Press INFO to view settings on screen.

Shutter Speed: Turn drive dial to set. For low-light, usually 1/60 or 1/125.

Aperture: Press exposure compensation button (next to shutter release) and turn drive dial. Notice aperture icon on the right. For low-light, usually wide open at f/1.8.

ISO: Press Function (Fn) button and turn drive dial. For low-light, usually ISO priority, so I need to know, by feel, where this button is.

For low-light conditions, the D5500 with an AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1.8G lens is excellent. I use the rangefinder scale in the viewfinder or screen to adjust for lighting. I usually lock shutter speed at 1/60 or 1/125 sec and leave aperture wide open at F/1.8. I then adjust ISO levels until the rangefinder scale is sitting at zero.

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X-T2: Indoor Shoot with 23mm F2 and 56mm F1.2

At a recent family event, I used the 23mm F2 and 56mm F1.2. It was held in a mid-sized party room at a Japanese restaurant from 6:30-8:30 pm. The indoor lighting was typical for restaurants, bright enough to read menus and see others easily. The lights were of mixed types and colors, ranging from white to yellow. It wasn’t dark by any means. The room was packed with family, adults, teenagers, and little children.

I started off with the 56mm. After the first dozen or so shots, I switched to the 23mm. The 56mm field of view was way too narrow for this type of social gathering with lots of people crowded into a room.

I shot the 23mm with aperture wide open at F/2 and kept the shutter speed at 1/125 to minimize the effects of shake. This left me with ISO priority for manual adjustment. Most shots hovered around ISO 3200.

The 23mm performed poorly. Roughly two-thirds of the shots were unusable. In post production with Photoshop, of the ones that were usable, nearly all were okay below 50% zoom levels. Above that, however, they quickly became grainy, noisy.

Sharpness was poor in all of them, even when autofocus seemed to be working fine. I used Provia film simulation. Color rendition was poor.

The 23mm handled lighting variations poorly, overexposing some and underexposing others in group shots.

I should’ve expected this. I’ve used the X100-T (with 23mm F2) in similar indoor social shoots, and the results were just as bad.

This was in stark contrast to my first daytime field test of the 23mm F2.

Perhaps the answer is to use a flash, but I want to avoid that at all costs. Subjects are a lot more natural and relaxed when they don’t see flashes. After a while, they just ignore me.

The 56mm shots were quite good. I took around 20 shots with it, and I’d say 70-80% were usable. Looking at the 56 and 23 shots side by side, the difference in IQ becomes dramatically obvious. Does the wider 1.5 stop make that much of a difference?

I’m wondering what my options are. I’m guessing that my best bet may be the 35mm F1.4. Will the full stop difference solve the problem? I’m ruling out the 23mm F1.4 because of some negative reviews.

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X-T2: How to Center the Focus Box

Problem: The focus box in your viewfinder is not in the center, and you want to return it to center.

Solution A: Press the joystick down. If nothing happens, press it again. It should move back to the center.

Solution B: If the focus box doesn’t return to center after pressing the joystick, moving the joystick left or right or up or down will move the box. Move it to the center.

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X-T2: How to Add/Remove Electronic Level

1. Click on the wrench.
4. Click or unclick ELECTRONIC LEVEL.

Click DISP/BACK button to back out of menus.

Comment: Since I had problems with leveling shots, I turned on the gridlines option. I later decided to switch to the electronic level. However, after a few weeks, I found the level distracting and difficult to use. I switched back to the gridlines. I chose the 9-zone grid to minimize the distraction while still taking advantage of the grid lines.

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